26.03.2011  D-day in 96 hours...

Beaten paths are for beaten people. 

As you know our final technical training was planned to take place at the Puntal de la Caldera east ridge last weeks, unfortunately my heel problems have been worse .

I have now had 4 weeks terrible problems in right foot with Plantar fasciitis, which is a painful inflammatory process in heel bone, caused by training stress. Last week’s I have been resting mostly, taking massage therapy, stretching, both cold and hot ther-apy, orthotics, antibiotic medication and injections of cortisone.

Last 2 weeks also acupuncture in old Chinese way. It has been getting a bit better but it is far from being ok.

I will be anyway in Kathmandu and start the expedition as agreed, as I cannot change nor cancel the outbound flight and I have all arrangements at work done as well.

Not forgetting my Sherpa crew whose annual income in depending also on my participation, there is no way cancelling anything money –wise.

Just in case, I already signed in also for next year expedition!

But how everything goes, I really do not know at this point, I just pray for a miracle, finally I will know after BC trek when attending first time the glacier.

Most likely the adrenalin and the excitement of the action will kill this problem.

This matter with fascitis is mostly only about enduring the excessive pain when walking or climbing, how bad it will end up after the 8 day trek to BC I have no idea. I have tested walking with my normal climbing boots some 2 hours or so very carefully tough and that was quite ok, as I had some orthopedic soles made for them now.

Will it get very bad up there and will it endanger the whole climb, I cannot say, I just have to test it now and see what happens during the trek – my worst worry is namely the trek, as it is then first time after the injury constant exercise for a longer period of time. If it will start making real trouble and I must use hard painkillers, it can cause me problems and the other issue is keeping the balance with it on upper sections. I have reserved so great arsenal of drugs with me, that any drug dealer would have income for weeks on black market just with mine...I'm looking forward discussions with German customs at the München airport security control ;-)

But;

Pain in momentary—giving up is for ever.

I have got a lot of supporting feedback from you, my friends. Some of you are also worried about the safety issues, that is natural of cause. I have trained everything in precise manner and prepared all to the full.

Nevertheless something can of cause go wrong for that I must be alert. The most challenging

part will be Khumbu glacier and Icefall. Khumbu is constantly in movement and new crevasses can form anytime or seracs can fall down.

We will get first overview of the situation at Khumbu this weekend as scouts are there now, we have heard rumors that the glacier would be cracking wide open and that will cause extra work for us.

To minimize the risk Khumbu is normally acrossed during the night when the coldness prevents the movement, then again we are working in darkness, but that is in this section quite ok. Remaining risk factors on upper snowy parts are of cause the avalanches when circumstances are wrong, that will be for our Tim to determine and study, he has a long time experience of expeditions, he is a real specialist in it.

The rest is about acclimatizing and physics and a bit of luck. Some prayers never harm!

As any female, Chomolungma, Mother Goddess of Earth, is unpredictable and will only allow the chosen ones to the summit. One cannot take her by force. When all goes well, I will just slip to the summit and send you nice greetings with a summit photo.

However I must be realistic and ready to turn back when needed, that I will do.

I really do not lack respect for this mountain. I have 5 wonderful kids, I love my family more that any mountain, so when the ultimate decision has to be made, I turn back - come home. I have no intention to take unnecessary risks nor gamble with my life. I just have to climb and see if I can summit, simple as that really. Then life goes on. But I have to do this, so please understand me and support me and I take you with me to this adventure, to highest mountain on earth. I will later on tell you everything about it and you feel like being onboard.

Those that know me for longer time, also know that this adventure is far from being the

ultimate one for me — I have been to worse places several time.

I truly have orchestrated gigs beyond your wildest imagination.

The beaten paths are for beaten people.

Let us see how this turns now in few days.

Communication to outside world will be challenging this year as dry winter is causing power running out, power plants are having just mini-mum supply. Internet providers are having just occasional connections.

So no news is not bad news!

Until BC, take care!

Best Regards

Jan